A winter morning drive from Delhi to Moradabad in western Uttar Pradesh is a visual delight. The early morning fog can’t dim the bright yellow mustard fields on either side of the highway as you exit the National Capital Region, which soon give way to lush green fields of tall sugarcane stalks. And then the landscape changes, becoming more industrial than agrarian. Where there is sugarcane, there are sugar factories, and they dominate the view along the highway leading to Moradabad town. As you reach the outskirts, having travelled about 160 km already, innumerable hoardings on both sides of the road point to the other industry that’s popular around these parts: handicrafts. Vivid images of brass figurines and massive urns jostle for space with huge typefaces that announce companies that have been in this business for 50 years and more.