The first customers were the British in pre-Independence Delhi, who queued up at Kwality in Connaught Place’s Inner Circle for a cupful of Iqbal Ghai and Pishori Lamba’s hand-churned ice cream. As the years went by, even as Kwality and Gaylord restaurants became renowned for their food, it was the ice cream sold under the same brands that was the real commercial success — so much so that Kwality became generic for ice-cream for several generations of Delhiites.