Hundreds of birds hovering in the distant horizon are the first giveaway. Then the stench hits you, long before you actually see what appears to be a small hillock on NH24. Close to the border of Delhi and Ghaziabad, this is the Ghazipur landfill — 30 acres of filth that reached and breached saturation years ago and now just lies there, an enormous eyesore and a huge environmental hazard.