New Delhi [India], October 6: Ask a vegetarian in any Indian city whether they get enough protein and you will usually hear one of two answers. The first is a confident yes, followed by a list of dal, paneer and curd. The second is a hesitant no, followed by a story about protein shakes, soya chunks and a nutritionist’s chart that never survived the first busy week. Both answers share a blind spot. Almost nobody counts the food they eat most often, at every meal, in the largest quantity: the roti.

