Trudging through the unpaved and pitch dark lanes of Rajepur village on a moonless evening, using our phones’ flashlight is enough to show us what living without electricity means for India’s rural poor. The lone kerosene lamp and solar-powered bulbs in some houses offer the only glimmer of light for this village in central UP’s Unnao district. It’s one of the 26,000 villages that does not receive electricity, even after 67 years of independence. In the stillness of the oppressively muggy night, a teacher conducts tuitions, explaining meanings of English words as groups of seven or eight children huddle around tables lit by kerosene lamps, straining to read in the dim, flickering light of the lamps. The incongruity of the situation strikes deep and fast. This is what Rustam Sengupta meant when he suggested that we stay till late evening during our field trip. “Then you’ll really appreciate what we are trying to do,” he had said when we were planning our visit. We do now.